The History and Revival of Traditional Islamic Clothing
Introduction
Alhamdulillah, clothing in Islam has always been more than just fabric—it’s a statement of identity, a reflection of modesty, and a way to honor our deen. For centuries, traditional Islamic clothing has carried with it the values of dignity, simplicity, and beauty. From the flowing thobes of the Arabian Peninsula to the embroidered jubbas of South Asia and the layered abayas of North Africa, each piece tells a story rooted in faith and culture.
But how did these garments come to be? What shaped the evolution of modest fashion in the Muslim world? And in an age of fast fashion and fleeting trends, what does the revival of traditional Islamic clothing mean for Muslims today?
In this article, we’ll explore the rich history of Islamic dress, trace its transformations across regions and eras, and look at how contemporary brands—grounded in faith and heritage—are bringing modest fashion back to the center stage. Bismillah.
Clothing in the Time of the Prophet ﷺ
The earliest foundation of Islamic clothing begins during the blessed time of the Prophet Muhammad (Peace Be Upon Him), in the heart of the Arabian Peninsula. At that time, dress was not merely about protection from the elements—it was a powerful symbol of one’s faith, humility, and societal values. The harsh desert climate demanded practical clothing, yet Islam elevated it by introducing a spiritual dimension to what we wear and why we wear it.
The typical garments of that era were intentionally loose-fitting, made from lightweight, breathable fabrics like cotton or wool, designed to offer ventilation and coverage under the desert sun. These clothes served dual purposes: offering physical relief and aligning with the spiritual principles of haya’ (modesty).
For men, the common attire included:
- Qamees – a long tunic that often reached below the knees, covering the ‘awrah (area that must be concealed in Islam) and allowing for ease of movement during work or prayer.
- Izar – a waist wrap or lower garment, similar to a sarong, tied around the waist.
- Rida’ – a cloak or shoulder wrap that completed the outfit, especially useful during cooler desert nights.
Women, on the other hand, typically wore:
- Dir’ – a long-sleeved, floor-length dress or garment that fully covered the body.
- Khimar – a head covering that extended well beyond the chest, as referenced in the Qur'an (Surah An-Nur, 24:31).
These garments were not flashy or extravagant. The early Muslims, following the example of the Prophet ﷺ, valued cleanliness, simplicity, and intentionality in dress. Clothes were worn with gratitude, not as status symbols, and people were encouraged to look presentable—especially for Jumu’ah or social gatherings—but without pride.
The Prophet ﷺ is authentically reported to have favored white garments, describing them as the best of clothes. In a hadith narrated by Ibn Majah, he advised:
“Eat, drink, give charity and wear clothes, but avoid extravagance and pride.” (Ibn Majah 3605, Sahih)
He would often use musk or other natural perfumes, teaching the Ummah to arrive at prayers in their best condition—clean, well-groomed, and modestly dressed. This spiritual etiquette around clothing was not limited to public worship but extended to daily life, instilling in Muslims the idea that what we wear reflects our inner state.
This early tradition set a tone for Islamic fashion that has continued through the centuries:
- modest yet dignified,
- functional yet beautiful,
- and most importantly, centered around taqwa (God-consciousness).
It is this prophetic model that still influences today’s traditional Muslim clothing, from the thobes and jubbas worn by men to the abayas and khimars chosen by women. The legacy of Rasulullah ﷺ in how we dress is not just historical—it's alive in every Muslim wardrobe that chooses modesty, simplicity, and sincerity.
Regional Styles Across the Muslim World
As Islam spread from the Arabian Peninsula to every corner of the globe, it didn’t erase culture—it refined it. One of the most beautiful signs of Islam’s universality is how Muslims in every region embraced the faith’s values while expressing them through their own traditional garments. From North Africa to South Asia, each community developed its own distinct take on modest Islamic clothing, shaped by climate, materials, and local customs—but always rooted in the same foundation: modesty, dignity, and taqwa.
Let’s explore some of these regional styles that still inspire modern Islamic fashion today:
The Gulf Region (Saudi Arabia, UAE, Kuwait, Qatar, Oman, Bahrain)
In the Gulf, the thobe (also called dishdasha or kandura) emerged as the signature garment for Muslim men. Long, flowing, and simple in construction, it reflects the traditional qamees worn in the time of the Prophet ﷺ—adapted for the intense heat and arid climate of the Arabian desert. Often made from lightweight cotton or synthetic blends, Gulf thobes are typically bright white, although subtle tones like beige or light gray are also popular in cooler months. You’ll also find elegant embroidered collars and cuff detailing in some regions, such as Oman.
For women, the abaya developed as a graceful over-garment, usually in black, and often paired with a shayla (long rectangular headscarf) or niqab. In modern times, abayas have evolved into a canvas for subtle fashion expression—featuring embroidery, draped cuts, or textured fabrics—while still preserving modesty.
North Africa (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Egypt)
The North African style of Islamic clothing is instantly recognizable by its flowing forms and intricate embroidery. Men often wear the djellaba—a hooded robe with a long, pointed cap (called a qob). In warmer settings, especially in Morocco, the gandoura becomes a lighter alternative: sleeveless or short-sleeved, breathable, and often worn in festive or religious settings.
Women across North Africa favor colorful kaftans, takchitas, and layered gowns with fine detailing. Gold thread embroidery (sfifa), silver buttons (aqad), and belted waists bring together modesty and elegance, especially for celebrations like weddings or Eid. These traditional garments are still worn with pride and have influenced international fashion design over the years.
South Asia (Pakistan, India, Bangladesh)
Home to hundreds of millions of Muslims, South Asia developed some of the most diverse and vibrant modest clothing traditions. The shalwar kameez is the most common daily wear for both men and women. Men’s versions tend to be simpler—featuring a long tunic and tapered trousers—while women’s outfits are richly adorned with embroidery, sequins, or lace, and often paired with a dupatta (scarf).
The jubba (long over-garment), especially among religious scholars and imams, is a prominent feature of Friday or Eid attire. In addition, many men wear turbans or topis (caps) during prayer. South Asia’s textile history—especially hand-embroidered fabrics, block prints, and fine silks—has made its mark on global modest fashion.
East Africa (Somalia, Kenya, Tanzania, Ethiopia)
In East Africa, Islamic dress reflects both Arab and Swahili influences. Men often wear thobes, particularly for religious occasions, and pair them with a koofiyad—a traditional embroidered cap. These caps, often white or beige with gold stitching, are seen as a sign of piety and are commonly worn to the masjid or on Fridays.
Women in East Africa wear long, flowing dresses and adorn themselves with vibrant khanga or leso—colorful cotton wraps that carry proverbs or uplifting messages in Swahili. These are often layered with hijabs or modest tunics to meet Islamic guidelines. The region’s bright colors and bold patterns are a distinctive expression of East African Muslim identity.
Turkey and Central Asia (Turkey, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan)
Here, Islamic dress has a more structured, tailored look—often blending modesty with imperial elegance. Turkish and Central Asian Muslims traditionally wore long coats, capes, and jackets, especially during the Ottoman period. These garments were made from heavier woven fabrics, with rich embroidery along the hems and collars.
Women traditionally wore long robes or dresses (like the entari) paired with headscarves and decorative belts. In many Central Asian cultures, silk and velvet were favored fabrics, and garments were adorned with ikat patterns and intricate appliqué. Even today, elements of this historical style can be seen in Turkish modest fashion brands and Central Asian wedding attire.
The Common Thread
Though styles vary from one continent to another, the essence of Islamic clothing remains unchanged:
- Covering the ‘awrah (modesty zones) in accordance with Islamic teachings
- Wearing garments that are not tight, sheer, or attention-seeking
- Maintaining cleanliness, dignity, and humility in how we present ourselves
Traditional Muslim clothing is not simply “cultural”—it’s a living tradition that links faith, modesty, and identity across the Ummah. The variety we see in thobes, abayas, kaftans, kurtas, and head coverings is a sign of the diversity that Allah ﷻ has created within our global community—“and made you into nations and tribes, that you may know one another” (Surah Al-Hujurat, 49:13).
These garments are more than just historical—they are statements of belonging, expressions of devotion, and acts of remembrance in the everyday. And today, as more Muslims seek to reconnect with their roots, these regional styles continue to inspire and shape the world of modern modest fashion.
Colonial Disruption and the Rise of Westernization
The arrival of colonial powers across much of the Muslim world brought not only political and economic control, but also a deep cultural shift. European colonial administrations, missionaries, and secular elites began to promote Western clothing as the standard of modernity, progress, and civility—while subtly or directly pushing traditional Islamic garments to the margins.
In many places, wearing Islamic clothing was framed as a sign of being “backward,” uneducated, or resistant to progress. This wasn’t just a matter of fashion—it was a calculated effort to reshape identity. Through education systems, workplace dress codes, and media portrayal, colonial authorities encouraged Muslims to distance themselves from their own traditions. Public schooling and government employment often required dressing in Western suits, ties, or uniforms. Unveiled women were portrayed as enlightened and liberated, while those who wore the hijab or niqab were seen as oppressed or out of step with the times.
In response, Muslim men in urban centers increasingly adopted Western suits, while women in some societies were pressured—sometimes even legally forced—to remove their hijabs. Traditional garments were gradually limited to rural life, domestic settings, or worn only by the elderly. In certain countries, Islamic dress was even banned in schools and official spaces.
This shift caused a deep identity crisis. For some Muslims, the change in dress was seen as necessary to succeed or to blend into the new cultural norms. For others, it was a painful compromise that chipped away at both personal and religious identity. Yet, despite the pressure, many chose to resist in quiet and powerful ways—holding onto their thobes, abayas, hijabs, and kufis as an act of cultural and spiritual defiance.
Modesty, Alhamdulillah, was never fully lost. It continued to live on in rural communities, during Jummah prayers, Eid gatherings, and family traditions—carried forward by hearts that remained loyal to the Sunnah. The flame of Islamic dress was dimmed but never extinguished. And in recent decades, we’ve seen that flame rekindled in powerful ways, as Muslims around the world rediscover the beauty and pride in their traditional clothing.
The Modern Revival of Modest Clothing
Alhamdulillah, over the last two to three decades, we’ve witnessed a powerful and heartening revival of modest Islamic clothing. What was once viewed in some circles as “old-fashioned” or only for religious occasions has now become a central part of Muslim identity worldwide. This revival is driven not only by a return to faith, but also by a growing sense of confidence in expressing one’s Islamic values—unapologetically and with dignity.
Young Muslims, especially in Western countries like the USA, UK, and Canada, are embracing garments such as thobes, abayas, jilbabs, hijabs, and kufis as everyday wear. It’s no longer about wearing modest clothing just for Jumu’ah or Eid; it's about embodying Islamic principles in daily life—at work, at university, in the marketplace. What was once seen as a burden, or something to hide from public view, is now embraced as a source of identity, pride, and barakah.
This movement is not just spiritual—it’s cultural. It reflects a broader desire to step away from a global fashion industry that often prioritizes trends, exposure, and consumerism, and to instead return to modesty, simplicity, and ethical integrity. In a world saturated with excess, Muslims are increasingly choosing clothing that reflects values of haya’, humility, and sustainability.
In response, many modern brands rooted in Islamic values have emerged with a clear mission: to serve the Ummah with clothing that is both beautiful and modest, stylish yet respectful of Islamic guidelines. These brands often take inspiration from classical Islamic attire, while modernizing fabrics, tailoring, and practicality. They focus not just on aesthetics but also on ethical manufacturing, fair trade materials, and thoughtful craftsmanship—aligning with both Islamic teachings and the growing global call for sustainable fashion.
Whether it’s a structured cotton thobe for a Friday khutbah, a linen jubba perfect for summer days, or an elegant abaya sewn with care and integrity—today’s modest fashion proves that Muslims no longer need to choose between their faith and their style. We are, by the grace of Allah, living in a time where it’s possible to be both devout and well-dressed, rooted in tradition yet relevant in modern society.
And perhaps, most importantly, this revival isn’t just happening in Muslim-majority countries. It’s thriving in cities like London, Toronto, New York, and Sydney—places where wearing Islamic clothing used to feel isolating. Now, it’s becoming a badge of confidence, an outward sign of commitment to Allah ﷻ, and a source of unity within the global Ummah.
Why This Revival Matters
This revival isn’t just a trend—it’s a spiritual and cultural movement. As Muslims, our clothing is part of our identity. When we dress modestly with intention, we’re honoring the commands of Allah, following the Sunnah, and representing Islam wherever we go.
In a time when fashion often promotes exposure and extravagance, modest clothing reminds us of balance, humility, and purpose. It also connects us to a legacy—our grandparents, our scholars, and the early generations of Muslims who dressed with dignity and simplicity.
Choosing to wear traditional Islamic clothing today is an act of resistance, of grounding, and of love—for the deen, for our history, and for our future generations.
Final Thoughts
From the desert sands of seventh-century Arabia to today’s global cities, Islamic clothing has gone through many changes—but its heart remains the same. It is a heart that beats with modesty, with identity, with reverence for Allah.
Alhamdulillah, we are living in a time where we can proudly wear our Islamic clothing again—where the thobe, the abaya, the jubba, and the hijab are not just garments, but signs of strength and connection.
As we continue this revival, may we do so with sincerity, intention, and gratitude. May our clothing be not just a covering, but a reminder—of who we are, where we come from, and the path we walk.
Ameen.
